Home projects, priced honestly
Typical price ranges for roofing, windows, siding, HVAC and the rest, plus what to ask a contractor before you sign anything. All free to read. When you are ready, tell us about your project and we will line up quotes.
The cost guide needs nothing from you. The quote takes about a minute.
"Every homeowner we talk to has the same story. They got one number from one contractor and had no idea whether it was fair. That is the problem this site exists to fix, and the cost table is the first thing we built."
The people who run CasaQuotePros
The reference
Ranges vary enormously by region, materials, access and the condition of what is already there. These are national middles, which is enough to tell you whether a quote is in the normal band or well outside it.
| Project | Typical range | What moves the number most |
|---|---|---|
| Roof replacement | $9,000 to $26,000 | Square footage, pitch, number of layers to tear off, material. |
| Windows | $450 to $1,500 each | Frame material, glass package, whether the opening needs reframing. |
| Siding | $9,000 to $28,000 | Material above all. Vinyl, fiber cement and wood are different worlds. |
| HVAC replacement | $6,000 to $15,000 | System size, efficiency rating, whether ductwork needs work too. |
| Kitchen remodel | $25,000 to $78,000 | Whether you move plumbing and walls. Layout changes are the expensive part. |
| Bathroom remodel | $12,000 to $38,000 | Tub to shower conversions and moving drains drive it up fast. |
| Flooring | $4 to $16 per sq ft | Material, subfloor condition, and whether old flooring comes out. |
| Water heater | $1,300 to $4,000 | Tank versus tankless, and whether gas lines or venting change. |
| Gutters | $1,200 to $4,500 | Linear feet, material, number of stories, guards or no guards. |
These are ranges, not quotes. A real number depends on your home, your region and what a contractor finds once work starts. Use these to judge whether a quote is reasonable, not to budget to the dollar.
Scroll the table sideways on a phone.
See the full cost guide with regional notesBefore you sign
None of this takes long and all of it is free. Skipping it is how people end up with a lien on their house over work they already paid for.
Check one
Ask for the license number and look it up on your state board's site rather than taking a photo of a card. Ask for a certificate of insurance sent directly from the insurer, not a copy.
Check two
The estimate should say what is being done, what materials, and what is excluded. A single number with no scope is not an estimate, it is a guess you cannot hold anyone to.
Check three
A deposit is normal. Paying most of it before work starts is not. Tie payments to milestones you can see with your own eyes.
Check four
If a contractor does not pay their subs or suppliers, those parties can place a lien on your home even though you paid in full. A signed lien waiver at each payment is the protection.
Guides
Written plainly. No gated downloads and no email required to read them.
Roofing
When a repair is genuinely the right call, when it is money thrown at a roof that is finished, and what a second layer really costs you later.
Read the guideWindows
Frame materials, glass packages, and which upgrades pay back in your climate rather than in the brochure.
Read the guideEstimates
Why the cheapest is often not the cheapest, and the line items that make quotes impossible to compare until you normalize them.
Read the guidePermits
Which projects usually require one, who is supposed to pull it, and the problem that surfaces years later when you sell.
Read the guideOptional
If you start a quote and want updates by text rather than email, you can opt in on the last step. It is entirely optional, it is never required to request a quote, and everything on this site stays free either way.
When your quote is ready, when a pro is reaching out, and follow ups on work in progress.
Promotional messages are a different box you tick separately. Neither is required.
Reply STOP to any message and the texts end. No form, no phone call, no retention pitch.
A few questions about the project, then where to send it. About a minute, free, and no obligation to hire anyone.
Step 1 of 4
Pick the closest match. You can add detail at the end.
We review what you told us, match it against pros licensed for that work in your ZIP code, and come back with a quote or with the questions we need answered to produce one. There is no cost and no obligation to hire. If you would rather just read the cost guide first, that is free and needs nothing from you.
Typical ranges for common home projects, and the factors that move a number the most.
A price range is not a quote. What it is good for is calibration: telling you whether the number in front of you sits in the normal band, near the top of it, or somewhere that needs explaining. That is most of what a homeowner needs on the first conversation.
Region is the biggest single factor and it can move a project by half. After that comes the condition of what is already there, which nobody can price accurately until they open it up. A roof with one layer to remove and a roof with three are different jobs at the same square footage.
| Project | Typical range | Lower end looks like | Upper end looks like |
|---|---|---|---|
| Roof replacement | $9,000 to $26,000 | Single layer tear off, simple pitch, asphalt shingle. | Multiple layers, steep or complex roof, metal or tile. |
| Windows | $450 to $1,500 each | Standard size vinyl, existing opening sound. | Wood or fiberglass, custom size, rot or reframing found. |
| Siding | $9,000 to $28,000 | Vinyl on a single story with good sheathing. | Fiber cement or wood, two stories, sheathing replaced. |
| HVAC replacement | $6,000 to $15,000 | Like for like swap, ductwork sound, standard efficiency. | Larger system, high efficiency, duct repair or redesign. |
| Kitchen remodel | $25,000 to $78,000 | Same layout, stock cabinets, laminate or butcher block. | Walls or plumbing moved, custom cabinetry, stone counters. |
| Bathroom remodel | $12,000 to $38,000 | Same footprint, standard fixtures, tile over existing. | Tub to shower conversion, drain relocated, custom tile. |
| Flooring | $4 to $16 per sq ft | Luxury vinyl plank over a level, sound subfloor. | Hardwood or tile, subfloor repair, old flooring removed. |
| Water heater | $1,300 to $4,000 | Tank for tank, same location, no code upgrades. | Tankless conversion, new gas line or venting required. |
| Gutters | $1,200 to $4,500 | Sectional aluminum, single story, no guards. | Seamless copper or steel, two stories, guards included. |
National middles, not quotes. High cost metros routinely run above these ranges and rural markets below them. A contractor who has seen your home beats any table.
Scroll the table sideways on a phone.
Do not open with the table. A contractor pricing a job they have inspected knows things the table does not, and leading with a national average reads as an argument before anyone has looked at anything.
Use it after the estimate instead. If the number lands inside the band, you have a sanity check and you can move on to scope and references. If it lands well outside, ask what about this job puts it there. A good contractor has a specific answer, often a real one about access or condition. A vague answer is the signal.
Our guide on comparing three quotes that look nothing alike covers how to normalize them.
Get a quote for your projectThe checks worth doing, in the order worth doing them.
Most home improvement disasters are not caused by bad work. They are caused by a bad contract, an unlicensed sub, or a payment schedule that left the homeowner with no leverage. All three are preventable before anyone picks up a tool.
Ask for the license number and look it up on your state licensing board's website. Do not accept a photograph of a card. You are checking that it is current, that it covers the trade in question, and that there is no disciplinary history attached to it.
You want general liability and, if they have employees, workers compensation. Ask for a certificate of insurance sent to you directly by the insurance agency rather than forwarded by the contractor. If an uninsured worker is hurt on your property, that can become your problem.
The two minutes it takes to verify a license yourself is the highest return work you will do on the entire project.
A number on its own is unenforceable. The scope should state what is being done, what materials and grades, what is specifically excluded, and what happens if something unexpected turns up. Vague scopes are where change orders breed.
A deposit is normal and reasonable, and in some states the size of it is capped by law. What you want to avoid is paying most of the money before most of the work. Tie payments to milestones you can verify by looking: materials delivered, tear off complete, rough in passed inspection, final walkthrough.
Hold a meaningful final payment until the punch list is actually done. It is the only leverage that reliably works.
This is the one homeowners have usually never heard of. In most states a subcontractor or supplier who is not paid can place a mechanic's lien on your home, even if you paid the general contractor in full. A signed lien waiver at each payment, from the contractor and from any major sub or supplier, is what prevents it.
Who is actually doing the work, employees or subs? Who is on site day to day? How many jobs are you running at once right now? What is your workmanship warranty and is it in writing? Can I see two jobs like mine from the past year?
Ask for recent jobs similar to yours rather than a list of favorites. When you call, ask what went wrong, because something always does. What you are listening for is how it was handled, not whether it happened.
Start a quotePlain writing on the home project decisions that are hard to undo.
Roofing
When a repair is the right call, when it is money spent on a roof that is finished, and what a second layer of shingles costs you later.
Read the guideWindows
Frame materials, glass packages, and which upgrades pay back in your climate rather than in the brochure.
Read the guideEstimates
Why the cheapest is often not the cheapest, and how to normalize quotes before you compare the totals.
Read the guidePermits
Which projects require one, who pulls it, and the problem that surfaces years later when you try to sell.
Read the guideHow to tell which one you are actually looking at.
A roof fails gradually and then suddenly, which makes the repair or replace question genuinely hard. Spend on a repair too late and you have paid twice. Replace too early and you threw away years of service life.
Repeated leaks in different places is the clearest signal there is. One leak is an event. Three leaks in three locations is a roof telling you it is done.
Roofing over an existing layer is cheaper now because it skips the tear off, which is a meaningful share of labor. It also traps heat against the old shingles, which shortens the life of the new ones, hides any decking damage underneath, and guarantees a more expensive tear off later when both layers come off together.
It can be the right call on a tight budget with a sound deck and a single existing layer. It is rarely the right call if you plan to stay in the house.
Get on the roof, or at minimum inspect it closely rather than from the driveway. Look in the attic for daylight, staining and damp decking. Count layers at the rake edge. Check the flashing at every penetration, since flashing failures cause a large share of leaks that get blamed on shingles.
A quote produced from a satellite image and a phone call is a price, not an assessment.
Back to all guidesFrames, glass, and which upgrades pay back where you live.
Window quotes vary more than almost any other project, and the reason is that "window" describes a frame material, a glass package and an installation method that can each swing the price independently.
Vinyl is the volume choice. Good thermal performance, low maintenance, lowest cost, and limited color options. Quality varies a lot between manufacturers, and cheap vinyl can distort in extreme heat.
Fiberglass costs more and expands and contracts less than vinyl, which matters in climates with big temperature swings because it keeps the seal intact longer. Usually the best durability for the money if the budget stretches.
Wood and wood clad look the best and cost the most, with real maintenance obligations on any exposed wood. Often the right call in historic homes or where the interior look matters.
Aluminum is strong and slim but conducts heat readily. Without a thermal break it is a poor insulator, which is why it shows up more in mild climates and commercial work.
This is where quotes diverge invisibly. Double pane is the baseline. Triple pane adds cost and weight and makes sense mainly in genuinely cold climates. Low-E coatings reflect heat and are close to standard now, but there are different coatings tuned for hot and cold climates, and the wrong one works against you.
Argon fill between panes is cheap and worth having. Warm edge spacers at the glass perimeter reduce the cold bridge and help prevent seal failure, which is what causes the fogging you see in older double pane windows.
U-factor measures heat loss, where lower is better and matters most in cold climates. Solar heat gain coefficient measures how much solar heat comes through, where lower is better in hot climates and higher can be useful in cold ones. Both appear on the sticker, and comparing them is the only way to compare glass packages honestly.
A mid range window installed properly outperforms a premium window installed badly. The questions that matter: is this a full frame replacement or an insert into the existing frame, how is the opening being flashed and sealed, and what happens if rot is found once the old window is out.
Insert replacements are cheaper and faster but keep the existing frame, so they only work if that frame is sound, and they slightly reduce the glass area. Full frame replacement costs more and is the right answer when there is any water damage.
Back to all guidesHow to normalize them before you compare the totals.
Three contractors quote the same project and the numbers come back thousands apart. Usually that is not three prices for one job. It is three different jobs.
Put the quotes side by side and write down what each one actually includes. The usual sources of difference: tear off and disposal, permit cost, material grade, whether the price assumes no hidden damage, and whether cleanup and haul away are in or out.
Once the scopes match, compare the numbers. Before that, you are comparing a quote that includes disposal against one that does not.
A low bid usually comes from one of four places. Sometimes it is genuine efficiency, an established crew with good supplier pricing and low overhead, which is the one you want. Sometimes it is a thinner scope, with exclusions that become change orders. Sometimes it is cheaper materials or less experienced labor. And sometimes it is a deliberate underbid on the assumption that change orders will make up the difference once you are committed.
You can tell these apart by asking the low bidder to walk you through why they are lower. The efficient one has a specific, confident answer.
Ask the low bidder why they are low. The honest ones are glad to tell you, because the answer is usually something they are proud of.
Two quotes give you no middle and no way to tell which is the outlier. More than four and you are spending a lot of your own time and a lot of contractors' time for diminishing information.
Back to all guidesWhich projects need one, who pulls it, and the problem that surfaces at sale.
Permits are slow and they cost money, which is why people skip them. The cost of skipping one does not arrive until later, which is why people keep skipping them.
Requirements vary by jurisdiction and these lists are typical rather than authoritative. Your local building department will tell you over the phone in about five minutes, and that call is free.
The contractor should, and the contract should say so. Be wary of a contractor who asks the homeowner to pull the permit as owner builder. Sometimes that is legitimate for genuine DIY, but on contracted work it often means they cannot pull it themselves, which raises a licensing question. It also shifts liability for the work onto you.
Nothing, often, for years. Then one of these happens.
You sell. Unpermitted work surfaces in the disclosure or the appraisal. Buyers ask for a price reduction, or their lender balks, or you are required to permit it retroactively, which can mean opening finished walls so an inspector can see what is behind them.
You claim. An insurer investigating a loss that traces back to unpermitted work has grounds to contest the claim.
The city notices. Stop work orders, fines, and in the worst cases an order to remove the work.
Unpermitted work is not a problem until the day it is the only problem, and that day is usually the day you are trying to sell.
Retroactive permitting is often possible and is almost always cheaper than discovering it at closing. Talk to your building department about the process, and expect an inspection that may require opening up finished areas.
Back to all guidesWho runs this, how it makes money, and what it will not do.
CasaQuotePros is a home improvement reference site with a free quote request attached. The cost guide, the hiring checklist and the guides are open to anyone, free, with nothing to sign up for in order to read them.
CasaQuotePros is operated by Wise Alerts, LLC, 909 North PCH, Suite 300, El Segundo, CA 90245. You can reach a person at support@casaquotepros.com or (424) 678-0161.
We earn a fee when a homeowner we connect with a contractor goes on to hire them, and we may earn a commission when a reader follows one of our links or alerts and buys a related product or service. That is the model and we would rather state it plainly than bury it.
The consequence worth knowing: we are paid when a connection actually works out, not for collecting a form. That pushes toward matching people with pros who will do the job well rather than whoever pays the most for a name.
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Cost ranges on this site are national middles compiled from general industry practice. They are not quotes and they are not specific to your home or region. A licensed contractor who has inspected your property beats any table ever written.
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Effective: November 2, 2026 | Wise Alerts, LLC
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CasaQuotePros is a free home improvement reference site with a free quote request service that connects homeowners with contractors. We are not a contractor, a licensed trade, an insurer or a lender. We do not perform work, supervise it, inspect it or guarantee it.
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Effective: November 2, 2026 | CasaQuotePros
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